Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core Patterns
Hello hello!
It’s been a while since I wrote a blog post (lots of complicated life stuff) but I’m so happy to be back! I just finished making my first jumpsuit, a Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core Patterns and I have so much to say about it that an Instagram caption wasn’t enough, so here we are! If you would like to see more pictures or read a more concise version, then head on over to my Instagram post. Okay, let’s dive in!
The Pattern
I have been in love with this pattern from the day it came out, and I’m thrilled to finally have made it! I made a toile which was supposed to be wearable some months ago, but ended up hating the colour and how the topstitching came out on that one so I abandoned it for months and months. But then, then I had the pleasure of meeting this fabric, and I knew I had to make a Blanca with it.
Let’s talk about the sizing first: My measurements were all over the place when I compared them with the size chart, so I decided to play it safe and go with the measurement that put me at the biggest size, which was my upper bust measurement. It put me at a size 4, and that meant that my full bust, waist and hips were all smaller than the size I picked by varying amounts. I’m very glad I did that, because the hips ended up being just loose enough, and the shoulders are exactly how I wanted them.
Here’s a comparison of my measurements and the size chart for reference:
If you’re planning to make a Blanca yourself, I would highly recommend making a toile first! This is one of those cases that really calls for one. I was really surprised by some aspects of the fit, namely the rise and the hips: The pattern is drafted for a height of 5'6" (167.64 cm) and I’m 2” / 5 cm shorter than that, so I fully expected to shorten the rise of the pants. Spoiler alert: the rise was perfect for me! In terms of vertical adjustments, I only shortened the back bodice by 2 cm and the front bodice by 1 cm to get rid of some collapsing at the back. So while it worked out just fine for me, I’d be worried for those of you who are taller than me. If I was any taller, I highly doubt I’d have enough mobility in this.
A similar story goes for the hips: as I mentioned, I ended up picking one size bigger than my hips called for, and they were still almost too tight. I’m pretty sure this is part of the design (they describe it as being semi-fitted) but still, I can’t imagine trying to make it in my actual hip size. Long story short: if you’re in doubt: SIZE UP!
Other adjustments I made include:
Omitting the chest pockets and the zipper facing for a sleeker look
Shortening the sleeves by 5 cm.
Cutting the legs at the cropped length, adding 3 cm, and doing a 3 cm hem.
Adding elastic to the inside of the waistband at the back.
Adding an extra belt loop at the back, and making the belt loops longer to accommodate my giant belts.
The Fabric
Now, the fabric… I was gifted this gorgeous Tencel by Meter Meter (with no obligation to post about it). Huge thanks to Julie for reaching out to me to see if I’d be keen on trying out some new arrivals to Meter Meter, these are some of the most beautiful fabrics I own <3 This Tencel twill is by Meet Milk, goes by the name “Smooth Drape Twill” and this is the Amber colourway. Click here to check it out! It comes in a bunch of incredibly beautiful colours, including some beautiful new spring-time additions!
This was my first time working with Tencel, and upon feeling it and seeing that it’s more slippery than my usual fabric picks, I decided to go all out and really take my time making it. I basted every single seam by hand prior to sewing it on the machine, and I spread the making of it over many many days. It was all worth it in the end, and it was a great opportunity to slow down.
The fabric has the most beautiful heavy drape, it’s completely opaque and so, SO soft to the touch. Seriously, I can’t stop touching it, I’ve been fiddling with a scrap piece for days :’) It presses really beautifully, and it doesn’t wrinkle too easily. In terms of slipperiness, I’d say it’s more stable than cupros and silks, but more shifty than a lightweight linen. I got no puckering at the seams which I suspect is partly thanks to my machine. (Thanks IDT!)
I have just enough left over for a pair of pleated shorts, so expect to see this fabric once more! :)
